Fitting
Last week a hush fell over the fair city of Pune. Yet another lost trail in the archives, documents ever more illegible; the sun smiling ever so cruelly with not a dark cloud for relief; my knitting blog parched for content, gasping for breath as my hot, clammy hands shuddered at the thought of holding any yarn in them; my travels too rushed to include blog-worthy photography.
And then the last straw: I lost a long-running battle and retired, bruised and hurt. The fifty-seventh tailor in town let me down in my search for some decently-fitting clothes, and left me with two salwar kameezes gone terribly awry. Over the years, I have fought this tribe of tailors with ready-made clothes, diagrams, my own measurements, extra cloth, cheap cloth, expensive cloth, plenty of time, compliments… it all came to naught. Famous ‘Ladies’ Specialists’, old and wizened darzis, genius housewives known only through word of mouth – all cut from the same, ill-fitting cloth. Yet more lovingly bought material came to hang sullenly on my frame like a tent, making a mockery of maths, measurements, and me. As for ready made clothes, I am heartily sick of Fabindia, despite the fact that I love most of what they have. Even if their kurtas do fit well, they either shrink, or fade after three washes, or you see the same fabric on someone’s cushions or curtains.
Inspiration, however, came like a pre-monsoon shower at the end of a hot, humid and overcast day in May. I have long wished to learn sewing, but never really taken steps towards it. The sticker-shock a few years ago at what Delhi tailors charge for a sari blouse nearly propelled me towards a sewing class, but it was the latest fitting disaster that actually got me looking for a teacher. My cousin, another battle-scarred veteran of the tailor-wars, decided to join me. And so, last week we had our first basic Salwar-Kameez class. Armed with sturdy handloom cotton (in photo above – printed for kameez and cream for salwar), bobbin, tailor-scale, chalk and a pair of lethal-looking scissors, I am already in the thick of it! Seven more classes till it’s ready to wear.
(The blue packet to the bottom left is a “French curve” drawing scale that announces its use for “artists and tailors”. Ahem.)
Our teacher is a long-time Marwari resident of Pune who speaks a mixture of Marwari, Hindi and Marathi, not to forget the sprinkling of English terms. It is quite a multilingual sewing vocabulary, but she said the only thing I needed to pay attention to was not mixing up my inches and centimetres. That, I think, I can manage…
When I mentioned the class to my sister, she brought out a relic from the past – her sewing class journal from ye olde days when she was in college. They were not friends, my sister and sewing, and we all recall immense drama and trauma surrounding every project she had to submit. Even she was amazed she had not burnt the damn book with all the pajama pockets turned backwards and botched seams. She has this amazingly detailed diagram for a sari blouse, and I am already dreaming that if I can conquer the salwar kameez, the sari blouse could be the next fortress to storm.
In the meantime, however, I need to find, and learn how to use, a sewing machine. My aunt has one of those gorgeous, old foot-pedal ones, which is totally cool, but heavy to transport. Another one in the extended family is a simpler, hand-lever powered one, but it tends to get stuck from time to time. My options are either to get it repaired, or buy one of those foot-pedal babies for myself. I am already coveting it, despite the fact that it but I think I should get at least one well-fitting suit under my belt before I invest in some heavy iron machinery, no?
Another, unexpected benefit: maybe this blog will actually see some crafting posts, cause by GOD it is hot here, and unless it rains a bit, I don’t think I can even bear to think of knitting, let alone actually do any of it. But given that frogging is not an option in sewing, I guess you can expect a lot more tears and swearing.
I stole my mom’s 40-year-old Singer (yes it’s older than I am) and even took lessons…I have a sad blouse hidden in the depths of my almirah, and a bad top in my table drawer. So much for my sewing ambitions. I am afraid of that machine, even the slightest touch on the foot motor sends it roaring away and I can’t even sew a straight line!
But you are persevering, I am sure you will soon be churning out the sewing FOs left and right!
Remember to measure twice and cut once, and always calculate in your seam allowances. Also, what we found with Delhi tailors, at least, is that they leave quite a lot of seam allowance in their salwar kameez, so you might consider going back to them if their work doesn’t fit properly and show them where they need to make adjustments. The large seam allowances are to give them enough leeway to do just that.
Good luck. I can sew, just not actually the best at it. Never very good at making clothing!
Oh pretty fabric!
Hopefully its not all tears and swearing!
Me knows- i have had quiet an adventure these last few weeks.
Oh you and Huan-Hua! Diving into the sewing machine world and coming up with cool things to wear. You two do tug a little at my heart but truth be known I had three (count them 3!) jobs as a stitcher when I was a poor struggling dancer and after all that time sewing dance costumes and high-tech rain coats for American bicyclists who fancy themselves triathletes I am not much tempted by the siren song you two are caroling. Just a wee bit, but not so much to actually buy fabric. I do however send all my best sewing vibes your way and wish you a fairly smooth journey and a great fitting salwar kameez at the end of it! You can totally do this!
And in the interest of crafty discussion, here is my one best tip: I finally could sew great, beautiful curves in things once I figured out that the sewing machine sews in straight lines only — that it doesn’t sew in a curvy way at all — (wouldn’t it be so cool if the fabric stayed put and the sewing machine moved around it’s curves! sealing up the seams! that would be sooo cool, anyway, I digress) so I just have to make sure that everything feeding into the needle area is feeding in on a straight line based off the salvage edge and the drop foot — that those two are best off moving in a parallel relationship… always. The curves will come out fine as long as the fabric is fed in straight at any given moment whether it be small increments of straightness while maneuvering through a tight curve or gloriously long runs of straight seems). So just look to that tiny area right in front of, right under, and just after the needle — don’t worry about the big picture — just get that small area running straight in at any given moment and you’re golden. Sewing on a machine is just stitching a straight line, and sewing curves is managing a series of shifting straight lines… Okay, I’m getting way too pedantic here!
Cheers!
once you start you might find yourself addicted…
fergie-who-is-out-of-silk-thread
Cool! My mom used to sew all the time when I was a kid, but I’ve pretty much never done more than some basic pillows or skirts that were essentially nothing but tubes. I’ve thought about taking sewing lessons, though, because I have one friend who sews–and I realized that that’s why I’d noticed that her clothes fit her perfectly.
And, funnily, my landlady came in this morning and asked me something about sewing. “I don’t sew, I only knit,” I answered. Now she can’t remember which of her former lodgers was the seamstress.
Three things:
Fabric accumulates much faster than yarn.
Sewing speed is proportional to foot pressure on the pedal.
Sewing is much harder to rip out than knitting (except in the case of mohair).
Don’t let your finger go under the moving sewing needle.
I guess that was four. Have fun, be fearless!
SWAPNA, you have me laughing at the idea of the machine roaring away from your feet! I have no doubt I will find it untameable, but fingers crossed!
MICHELLE and MARY – thanks for the tips! I have difficulty with straight lines as it is (and with curves, but that’s a different story…)!
MEL, all the tailors do extra seam allowances – unfortunately this is not just with a cm too tight or loose, which I could fix, but a disappointment with the whole cut and fall! But yeah, seam allowances are a must – more for sari blouses than for salwar-kameezes, even – most tailors make at least three seams for them!
FERGIE and WALDEN, thanks for the wishes!
AS – you should take a class when you come back!
Wow . . . cool! You’ll have a lot of fun! Here in US, I’ve got the Folkwear 134 pattern that has a sari blouse. It’s kinda weird looking (the front has several pieces). I have the Burda version which seems to be decent and more in line, although the sleeves are not skin-tight. I used to have a tailor’s manual which I got from someone who got it from her source in India – this manual was issued b the government for tailors, I think. But I can’t seem to find it, unfortunately – I may have lent it to someone and forgot to get it back. Perhaps someday I’ll be able to find a copy somewhere. I’ve got a good amount of sarees that I bought off the net but no color-appropriate blouses (those that I do, was made by a tailor who made it skintight – especially around the armpit, which I find uncomfortable).
Anyway, have fun and good luck finding a sewing machine! I recommend Bernina – very well-made and lasts for years.
Have a wonderful time sewing! I took some classes the last time while I was in India, but I have not bought my own machine yet. If you start making your own kurtas, you will be my new star!
Adventures in sewing here–http://www.dressaday.com/dressaday.html–at the blog of a lexicographer who also writes about the Secret Lives of Dresses. And book reviews, and tutorials, and links…even though I don’t sew, I read it regularly.
Digging those lethal-looking scissors!!! Hope all goes well in the sewing arena and that there will be no more tailor wars for you! Love the fabric choices you’ve made – crisp and cool at the same time!!
Fitting a saree blouse is a whole other science. There are so many approaches- katori cut, simple pleats, bias vs straight, varied necklines, sleeves etc. After many attempts i personally found the best way for me was to sacrifice one well-fitting blouse, pick it apart and reproduce its pattern carefully. This has stood me in good stead for lo the many years, with a few alterations for middle-aged spread. But then I’m partial to plain, ordinary v necks and elbow sleeves– no fancy stuff for me.
LOLA, nowadays the trend is to have blouses with some positive ease – at least in the sleeves. I had one made like that, and it really makes a difference to the comfort level!
ZAINAB, if I do transition to blouses, I might follow your example and pick one of mine apart too!
TEXANNE, thanks for that link!
Wandered on to your blog after a long time, and it was quite timely. I have some odd fitting pieces too, some too tight and some too loose. Others even more odd. I have been tempted to learn to sew for all the same reasons you mentioned, but alas, no time.
I am left wondering what the correct marxist approach to this should be …
This post reminded me of the hand-driven Singer black-beauty with gold coloured designs that my naani got as part of her dowry in 1942. She used it till she was alive and after 2000 its been with Manjari. Still works fine….
One more reason to come to Hyderabad. (and by then, I’d've worked out the relevant marxist interpretation)
[...] laughed out loud when I read Swapna’s comment a couple of posts ago about the sewing machine roaring away at the slightest provocation. Mine (or [...]
Hello,
I’m a french tailor’s student, and the book of your sister is really interesting. In my country it’s not possible to find theses patterns.
Could you post all her book on your web site? Or send me the pictures?
The right part of the blouse pattern picture looks very interesting to make a nice pattern !!
Many thanks
lise
Hi,
wanted to know which classes did you attend n where in Pune. I jumped into a certificate fashion course and ended up being confident of paper drafts at the same time terrified of cutting fabric. The institute where I studied gave more stress to drafting than sewing; so my knowledge is theoretical.
An advantage I have- I have been sewing basic curtains n throw pillow cases, so am confident of straight stitches..
Thanks