notun

§ January 9th, 2010 § Filed under Food and Drink, Life § 12 Comments

P1000128

Calcutta in the winter is always delicious – the crisp bite of cold air a welcome contrast to the humid hell that it is for much of the year. It is especially cool this year because of a severe cold wave across the northern Indian plains, and I am enjoying it very much indeed. But more than the weather or the music season, winter trips to Calcutta for me is about one glorious creation: notun guR. This is the fresh (literally, new) jaggery drawn from the date palm tree, that is available only at this time of year in these parts: a rich, molten mass of sweet divinity, a winter tan that lends a deep, golden hue to all the milk-based sweets that Bengal is famous for.

P1000124

Of all these, the notun guRer shondesh (the crown-like piece with raisins to the top right) is, in my firmly unbiased and scholarly opinion, the best dessert in the whole wide world. Shondesh is of different soft and dry textures and shapes, and this one has a soft inner core with sugar syrup; in winter, along with its tan, is filled with notun guR instead. Truly, a bite into a fresh, soft piece is to transport oneself directly into heaven. (In the foreground is a notun guR infused roshogolla, also a milk-based, spongy thing that is very famous but, trust me, a poor competitor to the shondesh, and the darker rolls at the back are standard issue pantua-s, which look like gulab jamuns, but which every Bengali will hurriedly assure you are NOTHING like them.)

So, with this plate of goodies I wish you all a (belated) happy new year, one that is full of fresh, golden sweetness.

Last year I had asked only that 2009 bring me no surprises, and be uneventful. Naturally, it did not heed my request. 2009 took away many people I loved and respected, and knew since my childhood. I lost Bandu mama, one of the few likable people among my mum’s siblings, whom I had only recently begun to get to know as a fellow traveller in the world of Marathi letters, politics and history. He had no time during his work life to indulge many of his literary interests, but after retirement he had taken to learning Kannada and Urdu with great gusto, and wrote regularly and eloquently in the local daily Sakal on a range of topics. It is an irony that despite having been around him for so many years, I will have to use my skills as a historian and pore through this archive he left behind to deepen my acquaintance with this, unfortunately abbreviated, side of him.

Two formative, and ubiquitous figures – known to all of us in school as Singh-sir and Gijare-sir from my earliest memories – also left us. Singh-sir taught us Hindi in school, and was a good friend of my father’s; Gijare-sir lived right next door, in a divided bungalow, and his kids were our friends. Our families were quite literally close. We lived on a residential school campus, and so they were much more than just teachers – they were people you hurriedly wished on the way to class, dodged when playing truant, harangued for advice, chatted with, and made a point to meet when visiting back from college. I shall always remember Singh-sir with his slow, tall gait, popping nuts into his mouth as he made the rounds or dropped into our house for some tea, with some Hindi wisecrack or school gossip on the ready. So many years after leaving school and campus, I never stopped nodding my head and saying a singsong “goodmorningsir” to Gijare-sir, who lived right above us in a happy continuation of our school quarters arrangement.

Also taken, well before her time, was my first friend at work in Berkeley, Linda. She was funny, smart and warm; she helped settle me into the new workplace and we soon discovered common interests in yoga, fabrics and knitting. I used to like taking my tea cup in the afternoon into her office for a little chat and catch up on various campus news, and of all the reasons that made returning to work after my sabbatical so dreadful last semester, Linda’s absence and sudden death was the worst.

I have resolved to hold my breath with 2010, focusing only on the newness, and seasonal bliss of the jaggery.

12 Responses to “notun”

  • Mel says:

    If you know of or find any recipes for any of those desserts, do please share them.

    Unfortunately, these partings seem to accelerate as we get older. It’s been quite sobering to start losing people around my own age, but above all it’s a reminder of how precious all those connections are.

  • marri says:

    i’m so sorry to read of your losses in 2009. it seemed ubiquitous last year; we lost too many dear ones as well. i’ll be holding my breath with you for a more even year…

  • JOni says:

    Glad to see a new post, and the photos are delicious!

  • sepoy says:

    May their memories never fade.

  • Mary says:

    I am all for no new surprises. I am also for documenting lives and paying tribute. Well done. And a glass raised. Cheers.

    Oh I am so definitely with you on the gur. Can not get enough of it, but am clearly in the wrong part of the country — that shondesh sounds amazing.

  • Hima says:

    What are the beige sweets in the foreground? They look just as yummy! Am so glad your New Year is off to this meeeeeethi and refreshingly cool shuruvaat.

  • Hima says:

    Ah ok I didn’t read properly. Jaggery-infused rasgulla huh? Mmmmm.

  • Mints! says:

    Hope the new year brings lot of joy!

    looks like you are having a blast in India!

  • Such a warm, bitter sweet post. Hope 2010 brings good cheer to all!

    As for those sweets – you lucky dog.

  • Unaadtappu says:

    Stumbled upon this delightful blog via (of all things) a Google alert on DDK, which linked to the Train, Tenure and Thanjavur piece. And then sampled a bit of your other posts. Knitting, maybe not; but Food, Travel, Music, History, Marathi…I suspect I am going to drop in often.

  • sthan says:

    Sweet!

    Sorry to hear about your losses.

    – s

  • Leave a Reply

    - Why ask? This confirms you are a human user!